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FAQ for New Horse Owners
WHAT KIND OF HORSE SHOULD I GET?
There is no "right" breed of horse. Most breeds can do most events.
Only in a few cases does a particular breed or set of breeds stand
out.
If you are planning to do endurance riding, an Arab or Arab cross will
perform better than most other breeds. A few endurance riders swear
by Appys. And there are some good mules out there too. However, to
begin endurance riding, any breed of horse will do well.
If you are planning on high level dressage or jumping, the larger
breeds such as TB or warm bloods tend to do better. Some of this may
be due to judges' bias. For lower levels, again, any breed can get
you started out. (More on the level of training later in this
article.)
The most important element in picking the breed of horse, is that you
like it. There are more variables within the breed, that is, each
horse is an individual. There are hot warm bloods and mellow Arabs.
You will have to look at each horse as an individual and choose from
there. And I'll add, that it's easier to get used to a color you
aren't wild about than a personality you can't deal with.
SIZE OF HORSE
Get a horse that fits the rider. The horse must be large enough that
your legs don't dangle to the fetlocks, but small enough that you can
mount unaided, and not so wide that you can't wrap your legs around
it.
AGE OF HORSE
There's also the age to consider when choosing a "kind" of horse.
Differences between old and young horses are usually far greater than
breed-to-breed differences.
Begining riders should probably get mature 12+ year old horses.
Intermediate riders will enjoy the physical peak most light horse
breeds reach at 7-12 years of age. More experienced riders may enjoy
the challenge, and should also have the neccesary experience, to deal
with the temprament of younger animals ( 5 years and under ).
HOW DO I GO ABOUT FINDING THE RIGHT HORSE?
Picking up the newspaper want ads is generally not the way to buy a
horse.
If you know an experienced horseperson, who is a good judge of
horseflesh, then the papers, and even the auction houses, can be a
good way to find a horse. But, you'll see a lot of unsuitable or even
unsound horses if you go out checking want ads. And you'll see a lot
of misery and neglect at the auctions.
Once you think you have selected a horse, have the horse checked out
by a vet. The vet will also need to know how the horse will be used.
The vet will be able to find hidden defects in the horse.
Don't use the stable's vet. It puts the vet in an awkward position.
Pay the vet yourself. They are working for you, after all.
I disagree here. Every trainer has horses for sale, and they get bad ones
as well as good ones. I would suggest using a trainer that has been
recommended by other horse people in the community to help me find a horse,
but NOT one of their own horses.
By all means, pay them for their time, and pay them well. This makes them
do their best for *you*, and not for some kickback from an owner somewhere.
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?
The cost of a horse varies from area to area. The initial buying
of the horse is the least expensive part.
Initial cost
Horse $200 to $5,000 (more if you are really into
performance horses)
Equipment
Saddle, bridle,
Halter, saddle pad, $200 to $1500 (this is a minimum list)
Buckets,
grooming supplies, $50 to $100
Monthly
Stabling $50 to $500
Feed $50 to $200
Quarterly
Horse shoes $40 to $100
Depending on use and ground conditions, horses can go unshod,
so instead of shoes they get trims, at $12-$15 every 6-8 weeks
( $20-$30 a quarter ). But don't count on not needing shoes ...
Worming $10 to $15
Yearly
Shots $15 (do it your self) to $45 (have the vet do it)
Few first-time owners should give horses shots.
Floating the Teeth, $15 to $75.
Unscheduled
Vet call $50 to come to the barn
In an emergency, the vet bills can quickly
climb into the hundreds or even thousands of
dollars.
AMOUNT OF TRAINING IN THE HORSE
Regardless of the type of events you are going to do, you will want
a horse that is well trained in the basics (for the new horse owner).
A child's horse should be "bomb-proof": even a bomb going off next to
the horse would not cause it to shy.
If you are learning to ride, you need to consider whether or not your
learning will untrain the horse. Obviously, you do not want a Olympic
class horse to learn on. However, if the horse does respond to every
aid you give it, you will learn to give the correct aids.
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